800+ kilometers of northern Thailand on a scooter, from Chiang Mai through Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son and Pai, with zero crashes and one very tired Yamaha.
How it started
A small conversation with Xiuzhi about where to go next ended with one line that stuck: "I want to try the Mae Hong Son Loop." I caught the vibe and decided to push for it. After New Year, back in Chiang Mai, we started plotting the stops, how long to stay at each and what to ride.
We ended up on a Yamaha Aerox 155cc to have enough power for the whole trip, because you will meet some strange slopes and properly steep climbs. Luckily it survived with zero crashes and zero damage.
Each town on the loop has something different to offer. Driving it straight through misses the point.
The route
The Mae Hong Son Loop sits in the hills of northern Thailand: a stunning, lesser-known ride through hillside communities and serious scenery. It's a must for anyone into adventure or culture.
The most common route starts in Chiang Mai and runs through Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son and Pai before closing back in Chiang Mai. Most people do it in three to four days. Some take eight or nine so they can actually enjoy each stop instead of just riding.
For something more spiritual, the loop is dotted with old temples. Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu in Mae Hong Son and Wat Phra That Mae Yen in Pai are two quiet places to stop and breathe.
Renting a bike
We rented from Chiangmai Good Tour. The owner gave us a great deal, but it depends on how well you negotiate. Other shops worth checking:
Shops give a better rate for longer rentals. For the deposit, they'll ask you to leave either your passport or 3,000 THB.
Trip facts
- Distance
- 800+ km loop
- Time
- 3–4 days fast, 8–9 days slow (we took 8)
- Bike
- Yamaha Aerox 155cc
- Rental
- 150cc+: 400–500 THB/day · 125cc: 250–300 THB/day
- Deposit
- Passport or 3,000 THB
- Park fee
- Doi Inthanon: 300 THB foreigner, 60 THB Thai, 20 THB per motorbike
Day 1 — Chiang Mai to Doi Inthanon
We left Chiang Mai heading for the Doi Inthanon summit, our last stop of the day. Take Route 108 out of the city, then turn onto Route 1009 up to the national park gate.
As usual you pay the entrance fee before going in: 60 THB for Thais and 300 THB for foreigners, plus 20 THB per motorcycle. Charging foreigners five times the local rate stings, but what can you do. The funny part? The checkpoint guard never even looked at our tickets.
The second stop is Wachirathan Waterfall. The way down is a little off-road, so take it slow.
Before you go
- Pack for the weather on your dates. The mountains get cold at night even when Chiang Mai is hot.
- Pick a bike with enough power. The climbs are real.
- Give each town at least one night. The loop rewards slowing down.
